Aizu-Wakamatsu, Japan

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Aizu-Wakamatsu (pop. 120,000) lies about 8km from Japan's fourth largest lake, Inawashiro-ko, near Mt Bandai-san.

Aizu-Wakamatsu was founded over 1000 years ago and is the oldest town in Fukushima prefecture. Ashina Naomori built the town first castle in 1384 and called it Higashi Kurokawa Yakata. Gamou Ujisato extended the castle in 1593 and renmaned in Tsuruga-jo. The town was then ruled by the Aizu Matsudaira daimyo from 1662 to 1868.

The town was loyal to the Tokugawa shogunate and in 1868, a group of young local samurai, known as the Byakkotai ( "White Tigers Band") rebelled against the new Imperial government of Meiji. The Byakkotai fought for a month before all commiting ritual suicide on top of Iimori-yama Hill, where their graves are still visited by nostalgic of samurai loyalty. Also note the 18th century Sazae-do Hall at the top of the hill.

In 1874, the Meiji government burnt down the castle, which symbolized the samurai spirit of the region. In 1965, Tsuruga-jo Castle (￥400, open 8:30am-5pm) was reconstructed in accordance with its original design.

Between the castle and Iimori-yama, you will find the beguiling Oyaku-en Garden ( ￥300, Apr-Oct 8am-5pm; Nov-March 8:30am-4:30pm). The garden takes its name ('oyaku' means 'medicine') from the medicinal herbs grown there, and local herbal tea can be purchased at the souvenir shop.

South-east of Oyaku-en, a relatively interesting Samurai Residence Complex (￥800, Apr-Oct 8:30am-5:30pm, Nov-Mar 9am-4:30pm) with attached museum and good explanatory leaflets in English.

The town is quite spread-out, and you might consider catch a bus or taxi between the various sightseeing places.

From 22 to 24 September the Aizu Aki Festival has folk dnaces and parades in samurai attire.

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