Ayacucho, Peru

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Ayacucho (pop. 101,000) is known as the "City of Churches" for good reason: There are more than 30 in this town, including some of the most beautiful cathedrals in Peru. Until the early 1990s, Ayacucho was also known as the home of the less-than-saintly Shining Path guerilla group. Fortunately, the terrorists are now gone, but the churches remain and travelers have begun to return to this mountain city (it sits at approximately 9,000 ft/2,800 m). Start your visit at Plaza de Armas, the city's central square and home of the city's beautiful 17th-century cathedral. We also like Santo Domingo church, which has the prettiest exterior of all the churches in Ayacucho. The Anthropology and Archaeology Museum has artifacts from several pre-Inca cultures.

From Ayacucho, you can take a tour to the Wari Ruins - a pre-Inca city with recognizable streets, plazas and canals. There are Inca ruins at nearby Vilcashuaman. The last battle for Peruvian independence was fought near the city in 1824. Visit the Santuario Historico de la Pampa de Ayacucho and the Reserva Nacional de Pampas Galeras to learn more about it.

Ayacucho is widely known for its Semana Santa celebration, and accommodations are hard to find during this week. The seven days leading up to Easter Sunday include elaborate processions, sidewalk art, music, food and bull-running (like in Pamplona, Spain). Plan at least two nights in Ayacucho, longer if you're visiting during Semana Santa.

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