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Dresden, Germany, Germany

Nick Nellson

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Called "Florence of the North" before it was devastated in fire-bomb raids at the end of World War II, Dresden is working hard to regain some of its glory - especially since its 800th anniversary is coming up in 2006. Several of its architectural gems have already been restored, and work on others is under way. Unfortunately, the city suffered a setback because of major flooding in summer 2002, which resulted in damage to the city. But, for the most part, Dresden is recovering and is open for business.

Be sure to visit the Zwinger, a late-baroque complex of pavilions dripping with ornamentation. Its Semper Gallery houses wonderful Old Masters paintings, including Raphael's Sistine Madonna. A short walk from the Zwinger is the lovely Semperoper. Take a tour of it and attend a performance, if possible. Also in the area is the Cathedral and the palace (undergoing reconstruction and only partially open).

The Grunes Gewolbe (Green Vault) collection, temporarily housed in the Albertinum museum, is a must-see - it's one of Europe's most amazing treasuries of gold, silver and jeweled objects. (The collection will be displayed in the palace when restoration is completed.) The Albertinum also houses a gallery of New Masters (19th- and 20th-century paintings). Also inspect how work is progressing on the Frauenkirche, a church destroyed in World War II and only now being reconstructed. We also enjoy taking a break from sightseeing and simply enjoying the wonderful view from the Bruhlsche Terrasse, a raised promenade along the Elbe River.

Sights near Dresden that are worth seeing (half-day trips) include Schloss Moritzburg (a ducal hunting lodge set on an island in an artificial lake) in Moritzburg and Schloss Pillnitz (a fantasy-rich, Far East-influenced pleasure palace) in Pillnitz.

A full day is recommended for side trips to the town of Meissen or the Sachsische Schweiz area. Unlike nearby Dresden, Meissen escaped destruction in World War II and remains a beautifully preserved old town at the center of a rich wine-growing region. The summer 2002 floods caused major damage to Meissen and its porcelain factory, but the town is being cleaned up and is still worth a visit. Its magnificent medieval quarter, Albrechtsburg, has an impressive cathedral and ducal palace. The town's well-known porcelain factory, created by Augustus the Strong of Saxony in 1710, is well worth a tour, but wares must be purchased at a shop on the old market square.

The Sachsische Schweiz region between Dresden and the Czech border, called "Saxon Switzerland," has beautiful mountains, gorges, forests and rock formations. One of the most enjoyable ways to see the scenery is from the deck of a paddle-wheel riverboat on the Elbe River between Dresden and Bad Schandau (from mid April to mid December). Other sites worth seeing are the Bastei, a rugged area with great rock formations, and the Konigstein Fortress. Mountain lovers will enjoy a three-day stay in the area, or it can be seen as a day trip from Dresden.

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