Offshore Islands, Estonia, Estonia

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Estonia includes more than 1,500 islands. The largest, Saaremaa, was off limits to visitors for more than 50 years, which had the unintended effect of preserving much of the island's old way of life - except for fishing. (The Soviets worried the islands would be an easy escape point to the West, so they restricted travel to them and even made boat ownership by locals illegal.) In any case, Saaremaa remains the most indelibly Estonian part of the country. The island's attractions include beautiful natural scenery, 13th-century Gothic churches in the villages of Kaarma and Poide, spas, and the beautifully preserved 14th-century castle in Kuressaare (the town also has a quaint but small old city and an outdoor market).

On your way to Saaremaa, visit the island of Muhu and tour the Koguva Outdoor Museum, a living-history museum focused on the life of rural Estonians during the early 20th century. Also nearby is the island of Hiiumaa, which has beautiful scenery. Hiiumaa and its surrounding islets have been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Preserve. Kihnu, an island in the Gulf of Riga, also offers a secluded, quiet diversion. The island's women are known for making and wearing the traditional folk dress of their ancestors.

Saaremaa can be reached by ferry from Virtsu, stopping at Muhu on the way. Ferrys also serve Hiiumaa (from Rehukula) and Kihnu (from Munalaid). Saaremaa lies about 80 mi/130 km southwest of Tallinn.

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