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Bumthang, Bhutan

Jaques Protis

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It sounds like a blues bar in America's deep south, but Bumthang is the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and home to its most ancient and precious Buddhist sites. (Smokers should stock up before arrival because the sale of tobacco is banned here.) In the centre of Bhutan, Bumthang encompasses four major valleys; the main one, Choskhor, is home to the most important dzongs, temples and palaces. Jakar is at the foot of the Choskhor valley and likely to be your base. Jakar Dzong is the largest in Bhutan, with a circumference of more than 1500m (4920ft), and was founded in 1549. Wangdichholing Palace was formerly the humble abode of King Uygen Wangchuck.

Further along Choskhor valley, the temple of Jampa Lhakhang was built in 659 and hosts one of the kingdom's most spectacular festivals, the Jampa Lhakhang Drup, in October. Kurjey Lhakhang is named after the body print of Guru Rinpoche, which is preserved in a cave inside the oldest of the three buildings, which has stood since 1652. If you're feeling dzonged out and have had your fill of old, sacred buildings, take to the countryside. Here, the great majority of Bhutanese live as they have for thousands of years.

The best place to base yourself in the Bumthang region is Japar, just over 150km (93mi) from Thimphu. As with elsewhere in Bhutan, getting there is a matter of finding anything with wheels and renting it, flagging it or catching it. It's either that or walk.