Thimphu, Bhutan

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The capital, lies in a beautiful, wooded valley, sprawling up a hillside on the bank of the Thimphu Chhu (river). It is the only world capital without traffic lights. One set was installed several years ago, but residents complained that it was impersonal and it was removed within days. Despite recent development, Thimphu retains its charm and is awash with brightly painted, elaborately decorated facades which give the town a captivating, medieval feel.

Thimphu is a cornucopia of Bhutanese culture, brimming with things to see and do. Dominating the horizon, on a hill just above the town, the imposing Trashi Chhoe Dzong (Fortress of the Glorious Religion) was completely renovated in the 1960s to become the symbol of the capital. It now houses the offices of the king and the central monk body. Most tour operators arrange a visit to the National Institute for Zorig Chusum (commonly known as 'the painting school') below the dzong. The school teaches traditional skills to talented children from throughout Bhutan, and a small shop sells some of the students' stunning works at reasonable prices.

Back in town, the most visible religious structure is the National Memorial Chorten, containing numerous sacred religious paintings and tantric statues. For many, this is the focus of their daily worship and people circumambulate the chorten throughout the day. The Weekend Market, in the centre of Thimphu, is an ideal spot to experience an urban and rural blend as villagers jostle with well-heeled Thimphu residents for the best bargains. Nearby, the Changlimithang Stadium is the national archery ground, where you can see competitors participating in the kingdom's national sport, complete with traditional garb, colourful behaviour and entertaining rituals. The National Institute of Traditional Medicine is an interesting facility that uses over 300 different plants to make medicines that are distributed throughout the kingdom.

You will probably be booked into one of the town's top-end hotels unless you have scheduled your trip during the Thimphu tsechu, in autumn, when all the hotels are completely booked. In that case you may end up in a guesthouse, someone's home, or even a tent - best to just accept what you get, it's part of the ride. Also, you may have to revise your idea of 'top-end': many of Bhutan's hotels are only at the standard that India's were, say, 20 years ago, but the service and facilities are generally good. However simple your accommodation, your room is likely to be ornately decorated in Bhutanese style and you may, at first, think you are being led into a monastery rather than your boudoir.

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