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Zinder, Niger

Practiced journeyerPracticed journeyer Alan Parker
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Zinder, the one-time capital of Niger, and an important town in the mid-19th century because it was on the trade route between Agadez and Kano, is still the second largest town in Niger. In its heyday, Zinder was host to both the opulent splendour of the Sarkee of Zinder and his harem, and the brutality and savagery of the slave trade, the latter financing the former.

The city has two sections: the Zengou Quarter on the northern side of town which has lots of commercial buildings and mudbrick houses; and the picturesque Birnin Quarter to the southeast. In between these two areas is the commercial centre of the town. The Birnin Quarter is a maze of narrow streets, dotted with small gardens, and crowded with fine examples of Hausa architecture. The old banco houses are everywhere, identified by their geometric designs in colourful relief. The Grande Mosquée is nearby, as is the Sultan's Palace, built in the mid-19th century. People still come to see the highly respected Muslim Sultan, a Kanouri, seeking his advice on marriage, divorce and the other messy bits of life in between.

Buses run twice a week between Niamey and Zinder, and bush taxis daily. The road between Niamey and Zinder is surfaced and stretches 909km (564mi).

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