Agadez, Niger

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With it's wide sandy streets and Sudanese architecture, Agadez is one of the more interesting towns in Niger, and is one of those strange towns that ebb and flow on the tide of history. In medieval times it was a flourishing city at the edge of the desert, overflowing with camel trains, caravanserai, slave traders, and gold transporters. By the middle of the 19th century the flow had trickled to an ebb and Agadez looked all but doomed. In this century the population skyrocketed twice; once with the discovery of uranium; and once again when thousands of dispossessed West Africans swarmed into the city after the devastation of the 1970s Sahel droughts. Today the pulse of the city is dependant on the state, or disarray, of the newest peace accord between the government and Tuareg rebels hiding out in the nearby Aďr Mountains.

The Grande Mosquée was totally rebuilt in 1844 and, with its pyramid-like minarets and wooden scaffolding, is a perfect example of Sudanese architecture. Climbing to the top requires a bit of effort but gives great views of the Aďr Mountains. If you're not already totally shopped out, the Grand Marché is the most animated place in town. You can go just for the spectacle, the people, and the variety of artisan's goods on display. If the bustle of the market and the tireless attention of the never-say-no vendors and hustlers starts to get to you, head for the Vieux Quartier, the old quarter of the town. The pace is less electric, and you can wander the crooked streets, visit the tiny shops, and study the Sudanese houses with their Hausa-inspired designs, at a leisurely pace. The camel market is another 'must see', although it cranks up early and is pretty much over by mid-morning.

You can fly to Agadez by chartered plane, although this will set you back a penny or two. Buses and bush taxis run between Niamey and Agadez, but there's always the possibility that services will be suspended, due to Tuareg uprisings. Asking for a lift with trucks leaving the market may get you a big ten-four, but payment will be expected. Hitching is another way to go, but it's not thumb-in-the-air type hitching. You'll need to do your homework and do the rounds of the hotels, campsites and bars, to find western travellers with a car. By road, Agadez is 1023km (634mi) north of Niamey.

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