Ghadhames, Libya

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The oasis town of Ghadhames lies 650km (400mi) southwest of Tripoli, close to the borders of Algeria and Tunisia. If your time in Libya is limited and you plan to see one traditional desert place, this is the one to visit. Famous for its desert architecture, Ghadhames earned the sobriquet 'Pearl of the Desert' back in the 1950s, when it was a popular getaway for Tripoli folk. Since then a new town has sprung up around the old one, and the latter's dark, covered walkways and whitewashed mud-brick walls are a lot less boisterous than they once were.

The old city is a labyrinth, lit only by occasional overhead skylights and open squares - a style unique to this part of the Sahara. It's also small enough to be entirely covered on foot, which is just what you should do when you arrive (bring a torch). Near the western entrance to the old town, Dan Magrumah House is an old merchant's house with its original furnishings and decorations kept intact. Sedija Square is surrounded by some superb mud-brick buildings.

A 15km (10mi) drive outside of Ghadhames brings you to some decidedly non-spectacular Roman ruins on the 'Haunted Hill,' Ras al-Ghoul (yes, the English word 'ghoul' comes directly from the Arabic). Ruins aside, the hill's worth visiting for its vistas over the desert, and while you're there, there's a lake nearby that's popular for swimming and picnics.

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