Tripoli, Libya

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Known as Tarabulus in Arabic and Oea in antiquity, Tripoli is the de facto capital of Libya, although there have been attempts in recent years to move some government departments to other areas of the country. Once known as the 'White Bride of the Mediterranean' (whatever that's supposed to mean), Tripoli has lost much of its pristine allure, though its many historic mosques and lively medina retain a good deal of character. The Turkish and Italian colonial periods also left a distinctive mark on the city's architecture, and best of all, Gaddafi's revolution has ensured the absence of billboards and other hallmarks of a modern commercial city.

Easily the most dominant feature of Tripoli is the Red Castle, Assai al-Hamra, which sits on the northern promontory overlooking what used to be the sea - a motorway and 500m (1640ft) of reclaimed land now separate the two. The massive structure comprises a labyrinth of courtyards, alleyways and houses built up over the centuries with a total area of around 13,000 sq metres (140,000 sq ft). Inside, look for evidence of all the city's (and thus the citadel's) former rulers: the Turks, Karamanlis, Spaniards, Knights of Malta, Italians and several others all left a piece of themselves in its arts and architecture.

The entrance to the Jamahiriya Museum is on Green Square, next to the castle. These excellent facilities were built in consultation with UNESCO at enormous cost, and the exhibits within are laid out chronologically, starting with prehistory and ending up with the revolution. The most impressive parts are the mosaics, statues and artefacts from classical antiquity, which make up one of the finest collections in the Mediterranean.

The medina is the heart of Tripoli, providing the most visually exciting and certainly the best shopping in the city, if not the whole country. As only a handful of tourists visit Libya, the souq has an authentic air and the goods on display cater to local taste. Even better news is that you'll find absolutely none of the hassle usually associated with a trip to a souq. When you've had your fill of the market scene, the old walled city also contains virtually all of Tripoli's historic mosques, khans (inns), hammams and houses. And to give the crowds an even wider berth, try visiting the city's peaceful zoo or any of the nearby beaches.

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