Libreville, Gabon

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With its big ocean-view hotels, office buildings, wide highways, fancy shops and cavalcades of taxis, Libreville looks more like a Miami Beach in the making than a major African city. Just to prove the point, its prices are big-time cosmopolitan as well: Libreville is one of the most expensive cities in the world. Every creature comfort is close to hand, but be prepared to pay for them.

There's no lack of nightlife, either: the African quarters are full of fairly cheap places to eat and drink. They're easy to get to, not half as dangerous or rough as some other African capitals, and the hard-partying locals are always up for a beer or two. Be warned though: The Gabonese are the world's 20th-largest consumer of French champagne, don't mind a tipple or ten of anything and have enormous stamina. What may be a ragged night out on the tiles for you may be just a normal day for them.

The Musée des Arts et Traditions is one of the best in Central Africa and definitely worth a visit as long as you can find it. It's poorly marked but is next to the Elf Gabon building in town. The Fang, Téké and Mitsogho masks are some of the best examples around, and are complemented by the wonderful collection of small carved harps, baskets and an authentic Mitsogho temple. The lively guide is an added bonus to the tour, but relies on well-earnt tips from the punters.

L'Eglise St-Michel is a landmark church because of its 31 unusual wooden columns, carved by a blind Gabonese craftsman, each with a biblical scene. Equally interesting is the choir, which is accompanied by drums and balafons. The vibrant Marché du Mont-Bouët, about a kilometre east of the city centre compares favourably with the best markets in the region.

The Palais Présidentiel overlooks the heart of town and is as much Bongo's paean to Western culture as it is to Gabon might. It was built during the heady days of the 1970s boom at a cost of US$800 million. This paid for the imported Italian marble and Greek columns. Unfortunately photographs are forbidden, and visitors aren't allowed inside.

If it's deserted beaches you're after, then you've only got a choice of two: Pointe-Dénis and Ekwata Beach. Both are on the northern end of the peninsula on the southern side of the Estuaire du Gabon. Except for a fisher or two, both beaches are blissfully deserted and have the lay-back charm of a sleepy backwater. When the beachy theme gets too much, you can wander around the nearby forests, or get a bite to eat, listen to music and sink a few at the local bars in the fishing villages nearby. You can camp or stay at one of the chalets at Pointe-Dénis. Outboard canoes leave for both beaches from Port Môle and run on erratic schedules.

The airport is several kilometres north of town.The seaport and railway terminal are in Owendo, 10km (6mi) south of central Libreville. Taxis are available, though if you walk from the airport to the main drag your fare will be cut in half. There are private red and white minibuses cruising all the major thoroughfares. Rental cars are hugely expensive and often restricted to use in and around Libreville.

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