Massawa, Eritrea

Alan Parker
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The port of Massawa, which lies 100km (62mi) to the northeast of Asmara, has long been a cultural sponge because of its deep Red Sea harbour, used over many centuries by various foreign traders and invaders - the latter included the Turks, who squatted on the premises for over 300 years, the Egyptians and the Italians, all of whom left their own individually exotic architectural legacies. Most of Massawa was bombed into the dust by Ethiopian forces during Eritrea's struggle for independence, but the town was rebuilt during peaceful pauses throughout the 1990s according to a plan that restricted the heights of buildings, limited development and basically sought to replicate the original feel of the town (or more accurately, how it was prior to its destruction) as much as possible. Though no longer the 'Pearl of the Red Sea', Massawa is still an engaging and hassle-free place to visit.
The city limits claim two islands, Massawa and Taulud (the administrative centre), plus a bit of the mainland which is largely residential. Massawa Island in particular is a great place to explore on foot, with its labyrinthine streets and its hodge-podge of interesting houses, hotels, squares and religious buildings. In the side-streets opposite the harbour you'll find a 17th-century coral-block house, coral having once been the traditional building material for Massawan abodes, as well as the ancient Ottoman-style houses of Mammub Mohammed Nahari and Abu Hamdum. Hidden elsewhere in the precinct are several old covered markets, the 500-year-old Sheikh Hanafi Mosque, with its stuccowork and stunning Murano chandelier, and the visually splendid Campo, a large square lined with houses that boast Turkish and Egyptian wood-carved facades.
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