Cotonou, Benin

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Benin's capital in everything but name, Cotonou thrived after the abolition of slavery, growing as Beninese, Togolese and Nigerian expatriates returned to the region. There is a crowd of bright, upbeat bars and nightclubs along the Jonquet strip. The clubs feature US, West African and even Cameroonian beats. Cotonou offers a huge selection of regional and international restaurants, and - perhaps, the highlight - the huge, picturesque Grand Marché de Dantokpa. Here you can buy a wide variety of items, ranging from blank cassettes, food and radios to monkey's testicles and voodoo love fetishes. Cotonou is slowly welcoming the age of the Web - there are a few Internet centres but access is often slow and expensive.

Just north of Cotonou is Ganvié, a town of 18,500 inhabitants who live in bamboo huts on stilts several kilometres out on Lake Nokoué. In the 18th century, the Tofinu people built the village as protection against the aggression of the Fon and Dahomey kingdoms; religious custom forbade warriors from venturing into water. Now, houses, restaurants, shops and even a hotel are built 2m (6ft) above the water. Very early or at dusk are the best times to visit Ganvié. The locals object to up-close photography, so be sensitive to their wishes.

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