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Krak des Chevaliers, Syria

John Palate

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Krak des Chevaliers has two parts: an outside wall with 13 towers and an inside wall and keep. The two are separated by a moat which was used to fill the baths and water the horses, but is now moodily full of stagnant water. Walk through the main entrance, an imposing gate in the 5m/16ft-thick wall, and past the towers that defended the castle, and you enter a courtyard. A corridor covered in delicate carvings leads to a large vaulted hall, where you can see an old oven, a well and some latrines. The chapel in the courtyard was converted to a mosque after Sultan Beybar took over, and you can still see its pulpit. The top floor of the Tower of the Daughter of the King is a cafe with great views. It's possible to stay in the castle area, or you can make an easy day trip from Tartus, Homs or Hama.