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Ashghabat, Turkmenistan

Skillful wayfarerSkillful wayfarerSkillful wayfarer Patric Scott
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Ashghabat is not the end of the world, but it feels like it can't be more than a short bus ride away. Consequently there are no great camera-friendly monuments, no shady tree-houses from which to watch the world go by, and travellers have to work hard to make a stay worthwhile. One of the main attractions is the huge Sunday Tolkuchka bazaar. It sprawls across acres of desert on the outskirts of the city, and consists of corrals of camels and goats, avenues of red-clothed women squatting before silver jewellery, and clusters of trucks from which Uzbeks hawk everything from pistachios to car parts. The remains of the vanished ancient cities of Nisa and Anau are just outside Ashghabat, but there's little to draw you there unless you're an archaeologist, historian or have a good imagination.

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