Chinatown, Singapore

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Chinatown is Singapore's cultural heart and still provides glimpses of the old ways with its numerous temples, decorated terraces and its frantic conglomeration of merchants, shops and activity. Unfortunately much of Chinatown has been torn down and redeveloped over the past 30 years. Faithful restoration by the Urban Redevelopment Authority has saved some parts but it has also posed a new threat, since the restored buildings are now desirable properties commanding high rents, and traditional businesses - such as shops selling incense to temple worshippers, letter writers and chop (stamp) makers - are moving out and a new gentrified Chinatown of fashionable restaurants and expensive shops is taking its place. It's still a fascinating place to explore though, especially in the early-morning hours when activity is more pronounced. The Thian Hock Keng Temple in Chinatown is arguably the most interesting in Singapore.

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