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Mongolia - getting around, Mongolia

Skillful wayfarerSkillful wayfarerSkillful wayfarer Mazoto Kyio
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Outside of the capital, there are few paved roads. The easiest way to travel long distance is using the national airline MIAT. Air travel is Mongolia involves a two-tier price structure, with the costs for foreigners being significantly higher than for locals.

For the budget conscious, Russian Jeeps and 4wd Mini-buses act as a public transport system. About 15,000 togrog will pay for the all-day trip from Ulan Bator to Tsetserleg (the regional capital of Arkhangai). Note that this involves being crammed into a Jeep with about nine other locals and spending the entire day racing over dirt trails--a very bumpy ride.

It is also possible to charter a Jeep and driver for private use. Prices are typically negotiated at a per KM rate. While far more expensive than sharing a ride with the locals, it is considerably more convenient, and allows you to visit more remote sites.

Whichever method of long-distance travel is chosen, keep in mind that everything in Mongolia has a tendency of breaking down. Don't be shocked if part of the suspension breaks and the driver jimmy-rigs a carved wooden block in the place of a mount. For more serious breakdowns, it can easily take an entire day or longer for somebody to come along and help, so leave plenty of slack in itineraries. Finally, Mongolians are rather notorious for being late. A bus that leaves at 8AM will probably not be out of the city till almost 11AM.

For local travel, horse-back is probably the way to go. Note that Mongolians ride on wooden saddles, so if you value your buttocks it's probably a good idea to pick up a leather, Russian saddle in Ulan Bator.

Another great alternative is simply walking. Since you can camp anywhere, resting is never a problem. You will find nomads anywhere there is water, and if you stick to the major dirt-roads you will run across plenty of guanz, providing huge cheap meals to keep you going. One interesting thing to try is to camp Mongolian style. When sleeping away from their ger, nomads will wrap themselves up in wool blankets, cover themselves with their Russian raincoats (essentially a tarp in the form of a trenchcoat), and simply plop themselves down on the ground. One night sleeping this way gives a whole new appreciation for the wonders of sleeping bags and bivvy sacks/tents.

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