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A dash through no man's land

"UN trucks"

Picture by Conor Meleady

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Serbia Montenegro Picture by Conor Meleady
Travel story: A dash through no man's land

Every few minutes I'd wake up at the impact of my head falling uncontrollibly forward. I'd be covered in a pool of sweat. And that Turkish pop music, which sounds like a cross between the call to prayer and 'Maniac 2001', still blasting away. This is 2.30 am on the bus to Kosovo.


We had left Sarajevo on an earlier, cheaper bus than intended, but one that required us to make a one-hour stop in the Serbian town of Novi Pazar, to wait for a connection to... More

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