Home » Malawi Mozambique » Cycle to the Summit Part 18 - Lilongwe to Maputo

Rather than take the popular Tete Corridor the team made their way on worsening roads to the Southern tip of Malawi. Mozambique proved much more undeveloped and remote than expected, often in the early days only passing through one small town a day with very limited supplies. But help and hospitality was at hand, from a much appreciated and unexpected source. The Indian Ocean was reached again after many testing days cycling and with it civilization 'as we know it' was slowly restored.

Cycle to the Summit Part 18 - Lilongwe to Maputo

Toby Hammond
2006-06-25 20:20:17

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He had three children but wanted five because he said he could expect some to die so needed some in reserve. Well they weren't his exact words but previously we had been told many children were desirable because they are a form of free labour.

Thursday 25-Jul-02 Inharrime to Chidenguele 111km

The going was tougher, hot and undulating. At lunchtime we met Mave, an English teacher working for the American Peace Core. She showed us her town's water supply and talked to our camera about the reality of water accessibility in these small towns. We stayed in a very nice self-contained house where chicken and chips was the only thing on the menu (as usual), but they certainly know how to BBQ a chicken in Mozambique. We had not had a disappointing one yet, juicy and presumably free-range to keep our consciences clear.

Friday 26-Jul-02 Chidenguele to Chissano 96km

We reached the big flood plain of Limpopo River at Xai-Xai, (I still can't pronounce it) that is the main food producing area in Mozambique and one of the areas to suffer during the recent floods. The road was undergoing major alteration so that future flood water would not wash it away. Ruth's saddle fell off further up the road. This was the first thing to actually fail on a bike and it was only a broken bolt that we quickly replaced. A pleasant campsite was offered behind Ibrahems café/bar in a small town, that was particularly lively with young people hanging out right down the main street later in the evening.

Saturday 27-Jul-02 Chissano to Manhica 98km
A good tail wind was enjoyed and meant that we could stop early and enjoy the best hotel we had seen for some time, the Restaurante Florentina. Most of the towns we had visited seemed to have at least one posh place were the wealthy and the white faces hang out and this was it in this town. Feeling a little uncomfortable here after a while Toby and I visited the local bar opposite were there was some very cheep draught beer to be drunk and then staggered down the high street in search of food and more food, to then retire to our posh abode. All four of us and our bikes had squashed into one room to save money. We hadn't seen any Mosquitoes before going to bed, but all woke up with that familiar buzzing sound in our ears so had to fumble around in a half conscious state looking for bits of furnature, door handles etc. to hang our nets from in the middle of the night.

Sunday 28-Jul-02 Manhica to Maputo 84km

As we cycled we noticed locals in their Sunday best and the ladies in their strange white head dresses on the way to church. We battled with a head wind for a while but later enjoyed a fast run into Maputo with a tail wind. Maputo doesn't look like a typical African city with its collection of tall structures. The flats in the residential suburbs reminded me of Prague but others said it had a South American feel to it. We had heard that the city has a bad reputation for muggings but fortunately we stuck together and didn't see any trouble. The city was quiet at the weekend and we were keen to get to Jo'burg so we only stayed one night in a privately run hostel called Fatima's. It had a friendly and atmospheric little courtyard, and was also noteworthy for its honesty box for the beer fridge.
We left Maputo with mixed feelings only too aware this would be the last leg of our journey and with the excitement of seeing yet another country, South Africa.