Home » Egypt » Cycle to the Summit Part 10 - Aswan to Dongola

Waiting for the departure of our ferry. First contaact with the Sudanese buracracy. A three day crossing of the desert. Becoming well practised in the art of punture repair. Spending many nights at the greatest campsites along the Nile. Finally arriving in Dongola to stock up on supplies.

Cycle to the Summit Part 10 - Aswan to Dongola

Toby Hammond
2006-06-25 19:19:11

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was our first taste of Sudan. (Owy is convinced that the Colonel stole the recipe from Wadi Halfa twenty years ago not realising that this would in time become a tourist destination for hungry cyclists). The cinnamon tea was also a speciality and we spent the first night sitting around an outdoor table in the warm Sudanese air. After many rounds of tea, felafel sandwiches, KFF and chocolate Nitty biscuits, we retired to our tents up in the courtyard of one of the hotels for the low price of 300 dinars (£1) per night.

Wednesday 6th February - Wadi Halfa a day of bureaucracy

We spent a couple of hours sorting out travel permits, and getting stung £20 for the privilege of walking back and fro between three different sections of the passport office. This was our introduction to the Sudanese bureaucracy that in time we have learnt to love in one of those strange love-hate relationships you develop with certain aspects of a country. After a very tiresome day of fumbling Sudanese bureaucrats, we watched the sun set from the top of a small hill behind the town and wondered what the rest of Sudan would bring. We spent the evening filtering 20 litres of water - half the total amount needed for the next 3 days across the desert. We calculated 5 litres a day per person, and needed every drop. We changed our tyres from our city-dwelling 'slicks' to the sand-groping 'knobbies' (Cairo's finest version of mountain bike tires). Unbeknown to us these tires would stand little more chance than a condom would with a barb wire fence when pitted again the Nubian desert's numerous thorn trees.

7th to 9th February Wadi Halfa to Abri, through the desert 41km; 42km; 51km

Grinding our way across the desert sands, the roads resembled more a corrugated iron roof than a road at times. The midday sun was hot so we stopped for a couple of hours over lunch under makeshift sunshades. Sheltered under our desert shacks, ...