Home » Cyprus Israel » Cycle to the Summit Part 6 - Athens; through Israel to the Egyptian border

The team find passage to Cyprus on a cargo ship, and spend a memorable New Years Eve drinking Vodka with Russian sailors, whom Ruth later beats in an epic chess match. Finding no connecting services to Egypt at Cyprus, instead the cyclists take a detour through Israel. Passing through spectacular places that are familiar to even the most lapsed Christians amongst us, we take the opportunity to swim in the Dead Sea, and then soldier on through days of horrible headwinds towards the Egyptian border.

Cycle to the Summit Part 6 - Athens; through Israel to the Egyptian border

Toby Hammond
2006-06-25 18:55:13

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too windy for swimming
Arriving at En Boqeq, a Dead Sea resort, for breakfast, the headwind became too much, and we spent the day there. We did the obligatory swim in the Dead Sea (in the gale force wind). I'd recommend not getting the water in your eyes though. Apparently Sly Stalone, when filming Rocky, did a hard-man dive into the sea with his eyes open. It is alleged that he came running out screaming like a baby...We camp the night on some wasteground with an American guy, Carl, who is also on the road on two wheels, but with more time on his hands to potter about and drink beer on the beach. Carl's bike is certainly less nickable than ours - costing $20, he has his tent on handbars, rucksack and hosepipe arrangement for a rear pannier, and a massive holdall bungeed on the back. We are suitably impressed.

Tuesday 8th January - En Boqeq to a petrol station near En Yaav 77km

More wind

We left Carl making not-so delicate adjustments to his bike (declining our offer of tools, he was hitting the bikestand and derailleur with a large rock)
We then bravely steered out into yet more punishing headwind, making slow and exhausting progress through dramatic, canyon-like desert, only broken by the occasional acacia tree.

A highlight

...for at least one third of the team- was when we arrived at a petrol station (in the middle of the desert) to find some young female Israeli army conscripts, clad in olive and khaki uniforms, strumming a guitar and singing 'Hotel California'. The rendition was not good, but it didn't matter.
Perhaps softening at this spectacle, the wind died down a little after lunch, and we ended up notching up "77 clicks", as Carl puts it, by sunset, when a kindly petrol station attendant let us set up camp in a covered area by the side of the pumps. We share fafallel with him from our stove, and get an early night, but not before catching Who Wants to be a Millionaire - the arabic version - on his TV..

Wednesday 9th January - A petrol station to a Kibbutz called Qetura 80km

Yet more wind
It was another blasted headwind all day. Toby took to cursing the gusts like a madman, and we were all glad to find accomodation in a Kibuttz with dinner and breakfast included. Qetura was founded in the 70s by Americans, and now consists of 40 or so families. Eating dinner with some of them, we learnt more about the idealistic, communal lifestyle they lead. Not all Kibbutzes are religiously focussed - Qetura has a minority of orthodox resisidents.

Thursday 10th January - Qetura to Eilat 50km

We arrive at Eilat, the border town, and find our first internet cafe in ages (hence a dearth of recent updates), and an appartment to rent for the night.. With the luxury of proper kitchen facilities, we cook up a decent meal, before heading out for a few quiet beers in town - if you're ever if Eilat, I can recommend The Under ground pub, in the Tourist Center. Doesn't sound great, I know, but it really is.

Friday 12th January - Eilat to Tabat 22km
By the time we have run a few errands, it is lunchtime, and we run into Carl again, arriving as we are leaving. Crossing the border takes some time - ahead of us are a swarm of Nigerians on a pilgrimage, causing havoc in the rigid border controls. Elated though, we make it into Africa by late afternoon, and find a spot on the beach, overlooking the Red Sea, to camp the night. The shore and extravagent boats of Jordan and Saudi Arabia light up the bay, which on our side remains largely dark. Much of the Egyptian shore is a building site for hotels though, - our beach included, but for now all is quiet on the Egyptian front.