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Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia - 2005

Zimbabwe, Botswana, Zambia - 2005

Jacek Pałkiewicz
2006-06-25 14:23:32

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Looking into the gorge, at layers of basalt and limestone millions of years old, the thin veneer that is colonial Africa began to crack. And underneath, a distant but powerful sensation emanating from the heart of this mysterious continent, like the faraway sound of the falls from inside the rainforest.
It was with this same sense of a peeling back of the surface to reveal the different layers of the continent that I spent the afternoon cruising down the Zambezi. The trip began with aperitifs under the awning of a river launch, cruising sedately down the wide, placid river. On gently sloping banks, feathery acacia and dark trees leaned over the water. Nearby, the smooth, slow-flowing surface of the river was suddenly broken by a pair of muddy-looking ears, followed by a tiny pair of curious eyes and then the enormous gaping mouth that is the hippo's territorial warning. Further along we saw crocodiles, threateningly motionless, absorbing the sun on the river banks. White-faced monkeys peered indignantly from leafy islands and a kite circled slowly overhead.

Hwange National Park
The next day we set off to go "on safari" in Hwange National Park. The park is about two hours by road from Victoria Falls. We had decided to travel by Blue Arrow coach as it would enable us to see parts of the countryside we would miss if flying. It was also decidedly cheaper! We had been surprised by the fact that Blue Arrow's fleet was so modern. There was on-board entertainment in the form of video, radio and a choice of CDs. The coaches were air-conditioned and boasted waiter service, allowing us to arrive in Hwange relaxed and refreshed.
There are few places in the world with a greater concentration of bird and animal species than Hwange, Zimbabwe's largest national park. We saw herds of zebra, small and heavy and beautifully marked. Wildebeest congregated around watering holes, elegantly lifting their cloven feet in the mud. Giraffe found camoulage ...