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Report of a self-supported and self-planned bicycle tour on the famous Birdsville Track, Australia. Monsoon rains added an unexpected degree of difficulty...

Summer, Sun, Sand and Mud - cycling the Birdsville Track, Australia

Waltraud
2004-03-05 13:53:55

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a cool day. It's only about 30°C, and the sky is cloudy. The wind gently blows from south-east, pushing us ahead. However, the track surface is more difficult today. Red stones cover the ground widely. We are now in the Sturt's Stony Desert, a stone desert with usually very little vegetation. It must have already rained here a few days ago, since lush green grass covers the red stony plains. We are even more surprised to find frogs and even crabs in the small water holes. The little frogs soon became our friends, since they climbed the sides of our tent to eat mosquitoes. It is amazing to see how the desert comes alive after a rain event.

A new day with new adventures. There's not much change in the landscape. Flat stony plains are interrupted by orange sand dunes. In the dips we find water of the last rain events, which has turned the track into sticky mud. This mud is now everywhere on our bikes, especially clogging the brakes, and even blocking the wheels. Removing a sticky crust from in between the tire and the fork has become a routine now.

Suddenly a snake crosses the track from left to right. We are delighted to finally see a life snake, and have our cameras ready. From a safe distance we watch the snake, which has the patterning and color of a Western Taipan. Supposedly this is a "two-minute" snake, indicating two minutes of survival after a bite.

Wet from inside and outside

Another day later we reach the Diamantina River and Birdsville. The Diamantina River is supplied only by rain water from the surrounding desert. No crocodiles in the river, no diseases, and the water is nicely cool. Now, after the rain events, the current is quite high. Therefore, a concrete bridge was built across which connects the track to Birdsville. Our fist visit in Birdsville is to the local gas station where we buy a cold drink. Immediately we are surrounded by a bunch of people and a guy already gives us the address ...