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18th - 23rd april

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Zimbabwe

Andy Lees
2006-05-16 14:38:30

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kariba - 18th april

we arrived at the border with limited foreign currency and only half a tank of fuel. we were worried that our zimbabwean dollars might be fake (they looked very suspect but we had no way of checking) and we didn't know if british citizens were welcome. even if the notes were genuine, we had bought them on the black market (22,000 to the pound, instead of 11,000 officially) which is an offence we know the government is currently cracking down on. zimbabwe could end up being more exciting than we wanted it to be.

the border formalities went smoothly and we were issued with a two week visa. we had arrived on independence day and a tv in the air-conditioned office was broadcasting the celebrations. at the end of robert mugabe's speech the crowd broke into cheers and applause. the camera angles alternated between a flock of pigeons wheeling in the sky, mugabe, the crowd and a general standing to attention at his side, looking uncomfortable holding salute as the minutes dragged on. when the applause finally stopped, the dignitaries sunk back onto their comically oversized and overstuffed armchairs and dance troops marched into the centre of the stadium. it seemed like one big carnival as zimbabwean women gyrated in their short white skirts and the cheers erupted again.

the immigration and customs officials were wearing the smartest uniforms seen yet. there was a largish sign telling us that driving without third party insurance was illegal, but when we enquired about buying insurance, the customs official said it wasn't required as we had a carnet. the policeman at the barrier deferred to the opinion of the customs officer, but seemed unconvinced himself. we were not entirely convinced either, so now we had to make a decision, buy insurance anyway or keep the money. under normal circumstances we would not have debated this but as national park fees needed to be payed in american dollars (as, ...