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16th december - 27th december

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Tanzania

Andy Lees
2006-05-16 13:31:11

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of the rain beating against the land rover's thin aluminium panels drowned out the sound of the now sporadically functioning cd player. the windscreen wipers flailed back and forth optimistically in the face of the fire-hose-like deluge. we shifted in our seats attempting to avoid the various drips inside the never-quite-waterproof cab. but despite all this, we were making progress. the arrow on the gps inched, pixel by pixel, along the little grey line that was the only feature on the small lcd screen.

late in the afternoon, we were relieved to finally turn north, off that long straight road, to begin the final leg of our journey. the rain had abated to more modest volumes and the red dirt road seemed to be holding together, albeit a bit slippery in places. it was getting dark when we reached tarmac once again, having traversed some water-filled ditches and bounced of some muddied banks whilst avoiding beleagered lorries. the landrover was splattered in mud of a variety of hues and looking not dissimilar to a piece of aboriginal art. our vision was narrowed to the smeary strip cleared by the wipers and the sidewindows had lost their transparency. we never intend to drive at night and this was probably one of the worst places in the worst conditions. but we had no option. there was no-where else to stay, we had to make the last 80 kms to mwanza.

as the sun set we emptied a jerry can into the depleted tank, poured some bottled mineral water over the windscreen and went for it. we didn't get far before being stopped by a police roadblock. if it hadn't been for the tyre-puncturing spiked bar across the road, i probably wouldn't have bothered. the policeman seemed quite drunk and delayed us excrutiatingly, whilst attempting to impress on us the urgent necessity of getting to mwanza and the dangers of driving at night. i thanked him for his concern and tried to angle my head away from the muzzle of his machine, which was swinging wildly ...