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30th august - 3rd october

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Ethiopia

Andy Lees
2006-05-14 18:15:24

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through the clouds. our guide in front, friendly and knowledgeable; and our ranger behind, with his antique binoculars and machine gun, and purple suit with the trousers tucked into his high army boots. somewhere further ahead, our two porters carried our heavier supplies, having failed to locate any mules.

we camped on a high plateau, spending the afternoon recovering from the climb and the altitude. we lay in the sun, glad of its heat in the cold mountain air. our faces were already red; the sun burns easily at altitude.

our provisions were fairly light for a three day hike. it wasn't so much a weight concern - what with the porters and mules - as a failure to find much edible for sale in debark. our search of the handful of shops and dismal market yielded only 8 packs of 'fasting biscuits', which are a bit like the english 'rich tea' biscuits, but more like 'iced gems' without the ice. so other than that, it was just tuna and pasta from our by now diminished supplies.

with that in mind, when someone we knew from an overland truck group - also camped on the plateau - mentioned buying a sheep, we said we'd be in for a share. now when i say buy a sheep, i should clarify that at the time of purchase the potential feast was happily munching grass just a little way from the tents.

the selection process was more harrowing than i had anticipated. rational thinking of course dictates; i eat meat, this is where meat comes from, so face up to it or become vegetarian. but the reality of picking, for the sake of the tenderest meat, the youngest and cutest looking sheep and watching it carried off, nuzzling trustingly in its owners arms was more unsettling than i had expected. having said all that, once the sheep had become meat and the ravens had cleaned its entrails from the hillside, we remembered our hunger and were glad of a hearty meal and the freshest meat we'll ever eat.

the second ...