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30th august - 3rd october

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Ethiopia

Andy Lees
2006-05-14 18:15:24

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tactics towards tourists, so before the event it was reassuring for me (claire) that we had an armed guard, albeit with a rusting kalishnikov.

the mursi - 1st october

two land rovers and a nissan (we had met a french couple at the campsite) covered the 50kms to the mursi village. there was more excitement with some serious slipping and sliding on the way.

visiting the mursi village turned out to be a bit of a strange one. on the way we were passed by a fleet of landcruisers ferrying tourists in to see the mursi. our first stop was just outside the village where some mursi were congregating. they were hounding the tourists, joustling for their photo to be taken. we got out but decided to wait until the village proper before taking photos. this warrior uncharacteristically smiled for the camera.

there are strict etiquette rules in taking photos. each person in the photo receives 2 birr, if the woman has a baby then 3 birr. this quickly adds up, especially when four of five of them jump into the photo. you also have to pay 30 birr just to enter the village. everyone wants their photo taken, and they pull at your clothes to get your attention, their fingers disappearing inside your pockets and if you don't want their photo then they become indignant. its a harsh selection process - 'not you, you...and put that baby away'. the women had a habit of swinging a baby out from behind their backs after agreeing the price and then demanding another birr.

on arriving at the village our guide jumped off the roof and went to talk to his mates, leaving us to fend the mursi off for ourselves. most of the time it was okay, but on occassion the mursi would press in on you, mimicking your voice, not allowing you to walk freely. we got some good photos though, and they had all made the effort with the body decorations and ornaments hoping to attract the most photos, and hence the most money.

after ...