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30th august - 3rd october

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Ethiopia

Andy Lees
2006-05-14 18:15:24

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be shown the way, we found a restaurant and had that beer, or three.

the next day we visited the castles of the royal enclosure in gonder. we enjoyed clambering through the 17th century fortifications as much as the tranquility provided by the high walled grounds - though one of the gardeners did stop his work for a spot of persistent begging.

the evening was spent in the company of voluntary workers, medical students and physiotherapists who were all in gonder with the aim of helping others. we felt mildly guilty as we were there to help ourselves. after a 'sharing dish' of the national ethiopian food - injera (which has the texture of underlay but tastes surprisely good) - we sampled our first ethiopian bar and nightlife. we spent most of the evening chatting to a bloke from london - surprisingly, the first english traveller we'd met since leaving home.

debark - 10th september (new years eve)

on route to debark we stopped in at the church of debre birhan selassie. after the cottagey, thatched exterior, i (who hadn't read the guide-book) was surprised by the colourful, cartoonish friezes covering every wall, and the ceiling too. we snapped away with the digital, not needing the flash with ISO set high and the shutter-speed low. someone's flash did fire though, prompting an alarmed gasp from the timid pilgrims who knelt at the alter in awe.

outside the church it was their turn to smirk as i inadvertantly stepped on an ants nest whilst trying to photograph an african harrier hawk. the ants made quick progress over and under my clothes, biting determindly. two even made it up to my arm pits. little bastards.

the road to debark took us up through more green hills, more smiles, more waves and more (very) hopefully, outstretched palms. traversing ridges and passes, we travelled through meadows with cows grazing amongst the wildflowers. with threatening rain clouds moving ...