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30th august - 7th september

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Sudan

Andy Lees
2006-05-14 17:59:50

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to take advantage of some spartan shade for a couple of hours.

the road started well and was easy to follow, we relaxed into the driving. the first 100kms or so it was just us and the desert but as we headed further south villages began to appear. at first few and far between - high-walled straw and mud compounds hiding the daily routine of the villagers inside - but as we went on one village merged into another, a continuous line of life along the nile.

we had planned to stop near abri for the night but soon changed our minds. after five hours of hot, dusty driving we were ready for a cold drink. we pulled the land rover over, darted into a shop, bought two cokes and in that time two security officers had spied us and were attempting to get us to go to their office. not knowing if they were fraudsters we drove to the police station first, before being reluctantly escorted back to the security office, where, as the officer laboured over the details of our passports, we were made to feel as if we were trespassing in his country. it wasn't the infamous sudanese hospitality we had been hearing about, so we jumped in the land rover and sped away.

we stopped driving as the light of the day faded and found ourselves in a small village outside of delgo. we sought permission to camp and set-up the roof-top tent. a tray of tea was brought to us, introductions were made and then it was early to bed.

delgo to dongola - 3rd september

another early start and we were on our way. this time we took the shortcut across the desert, driving away from the nile and its villages. there were many tracks to choose from but they all led to the same destination. the sun was barely visible, a glowing white disc in the dusty haze. the ground, horizon and sky merged into one under the obscured light. we sped quickly on the sandy tracks to kurma-en-nuzi, where we were invited to share breakfast with a pharmacy owner and ...