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20th july - 2nd august

Overlanding across Afica in our Land Rover Defender: Jordan

Andy Lees
2006-05-14 17:38:55

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um qeis - 20th july

never before in our travels have we had stones thrown at us. this was the welcome we received from the small children in the village of um qeis in north eastern jordan. although to phrase it like that isn't really fair. all the adults were very welcoming and tea and coffee was always offered in the hospitably arab fashion to which we'd become accustomed. guards at the numerous check points were always polite and friendly and welcomed us to jordan. the children were truly obnoxious though. shame.

um qeis is a small village beside the ancient roman settlement of gedera. perched high on a hilltop at the beginning of the great rift valley, it looks down across israel and the sea of galilee. surprisingly, given the location, there is an excellent restaurant in the ruins. this meant we were able to enjoy the view over a cold beer, gazing out between the columns as the romans must have done.

um qeis, al-hamma, jaresh, azraq junction - 21st july

close to um qeis, there is a small spa called al-hamma. having somewhat rushed through syria due to their exhorbitant diesel tax - charged weekly - we wanted to relax a bit. al-hamma sounded like it might be just the place.

as we pulled up outside, the landrover was beseiged by eager sellers; shouting and waving bits of tat through the open windows. that wasn't the haven of relaxation we'd envisaged, so a quick three-point-turn later and we were on the road again heading south along the east bank of the river jordan. the other side of the river was the notorious palestinian west bank. in amongst the lush hills of palms and olive groves it was hard to imagine all the troubles and hardships just across the narrow river; though the checkpoints with their large machine guns and humvee jeeps offered themselves as frequent reminders.

jaresh is home to another ruined roman city and is one of jordan's principal ...