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December 1999

Sri Lanka travelogue, part 1: Colombo

Ben van den Anker
2006-05-02 01:29:18

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My first flight led to Zürich, Switzerland, it was the beginning of a long, long day. Someone had the brilliant Idea to add Istanbul to my original route, Amsterdam-Zürich-Dubai-Colombo. Anyway, I arrived at last, more dead than alive. The best thing was, I could change my pullover into a T-shirt, 24 degrees at nine in the morning. Back home it was almost freezing.

It felt a bit strange, the first Christmas day and not being at home with family. I was warned about the taxi drivers, and yes, they told me there was no bus driving today because it was a special day. I ignored them and walked to the bus stand to find out myself, the junction was just half a kilometer outside the airport where I got on a bus that drove me to the Fort railway station in Colombo.

The first impressions were as usual, streets crowded with "life", palms trees every where around, traffic noise. At the Fort station a man approached me and offered me cheap accomodation in Wellawatta, a suburb, just a bit too far from the center so I explained him I'd rather look for a hotel somewhere near the center.

The first hostel in the Lonely Planet guide was the "Sri Lanka Ex-Servicemen's institute, despite it's horrifying name I decided to take a look inside. The small dark and dirty hallway made me get out faster than I came in, right next door I found a room in the Central YMCA. They made me instant member for 5 rupees and the room was ok.

I walked towards the Pettah, in search of some Dutch monuments. First I had to get rid of my voluntary guide, after explaining twice that I didn't need his services I decided to ignore him, five minutes later he understood. Orientation is a bit difficult, the streets are crowded, dirty, children playing a game with a ball and a bat that rarely can be seen in the Netherlands, it resembles cricket. At last I found the Sea street, or Goldsmith's street, soon the first temples appeared to my right. Almost too many images above the front door, all close together, some with more arms. There must be so much more in it than I can understand right now

I had already found out that the map was of not much use so I just follow my nose, I assume I won't get lost in this city. Somewhere to the north there must be a Dutch church, the Wolfendaal church. Just when I wanted to ask someone it appeared right in front of me, closed again, but now a man with a lot of keys invited me in and showed me around. The church still holds services, in Tamil and in English. The floor is made of tombstones, Dutch names remind me of my country.

It's a strange feeling ..... I wonder how these Dutch people will have lived here, tropical conditions, no traffic and air pollution by then. But far away from home, no telephone to contact the loved ones at home. Will they have loved this country? Little has been changed in the church, it's like being in another time zone, but a "more than a jet lag zone"!

Colombo does not appeal to me, the militairy everywhere contribute to that feeling. I don't want to explain where I'm going to in my holiday. The government is obviously afraid of more bomb attacks after the one last week. Only five days ago the elections took place, so they might be right to take precautions. Anyway, time to leave for me!