Home » Ethiopia » One Year Africa: Swimming in the Blue Nile, Walking Abay-avenue

There is one particular river crossing I will relish forever, not only because it is a famous river, but because I did it in the most beautiful way one can imagine: I swam.

One Year Africa: Swimming in the Blue Nile, Walking Abay-avenue

Maarten de Boeck
2006-05-01 17:28:33

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it was the first time in their life seeing a white man. Probably they had heard stories about these strange foreign people, maybe they had seen pictures at school and chuckled by the sight of these strange looking men. But suddenly, out of nowhere, there was one passing in front of their own school. Many of them will have remembered that moment a long time afterwards, like I do.

As we went on my legs became more and more painful. The miles began taking their toll, but every step brought me closer to Mertule Mariam. I just carried on. As we approached the town, it became more and more hilly. Again I had to sweat it out to overcome them. In the end there was only one long climb left, a long winding slope leading to Mertule Mariam. Once more I dragged myself up, step after step, putting energy in a last effort to reach my destination.

Once in Mertule Mariam, I was surrounded by people in a matter of minutes. We strolled around a few blocks. Their number swelled over a hundred in no time, like all the young boys and men had come to see me. All seeking my attention, shouting, making a circle around me as I stopped walking, tracing my footsteps when I proceeded. Quickly we sought refuge in a teahouse, slaking ourselves with sweet tea and bread. Soon the place brimmed with people too, and outside even more were waiting. A dozen of blokes were standing at the window, staring at me. People seeking to glimpse me blocked the doors. Others thought it to be their task to chase them, throwing soil and water to them, but as quickly the boys fled, as quickly they re-emerged again, launching cat and mouse with their contenders.
Tanascu left soon, returning home. I spent a couple of hours at the teahouse, a bit reluctant to get out and look for accommodation. I kept on postponing my search for a bed, because I wasn't keen on being followed again. I just was sitting there, wearing a big smile, drinking glasses of sugared tea, one after the other and casually chatting to people. One of them was an older man with a white beard. We said few words to each other but were both smiling. I enjoyed sitting there with him, and he seemed to enjoy himself as well. I think he found me a curious boy.

I had to leave the teahouse and look for a place to spend the night. I had already heard there was only one guesthouse in town. Two young men escorted me to the place, only a few hundred metres away. The crowd followed me at a distance because the boys threw little stones to them.

At the guesthouse, I was given a bed in a small room for half an euro. I closed the door, fencing myself from Mertule Mariam. There was no need to go anywhere else, no need to see anyone. I was eager to spend the evening in the closeness of these four walls.