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16 March 1999

The Kingsmill's Trans-Africa Overland Trip, Part 12: Sudan and Egypt

Geoff Kingsmill
2006-04-25 21:25:54

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operational we doubted that their camel patrol would be able to stop us entering illegally should we decide to make a run for it. UNBELIEVABLE! Later we met the General and his entourage but were told that the Minister of the Interior had made the final decision and that there was no higher authority. He also told us that the previous Overlanders who entered last week were detained for four days but were finally let into Egypt and that they were to be the last.

The Sudanese soldiers were surprised and disappointed that we had been denied access. They escorted us back to Wadi Halfa where we were re-stamped back into Sudan. We then investigated the vehicle ferry from Wadi Halfa to Aswan in Egypt. The only way the Wadi Halfa office can contact the vehicle ferry in Aswan is by using the weekly passenger ferry which has radio contact with Aswan. Fortunately the passenger ferry was due to arrive the next day. After three days of negotiations we still had not been able to get a firm price and so we decided to drive to Port Sudan and enter Egypt overland via Halaib or by ship. After yet another day's worth of paperwork we had all the permits required to travel. We headed across the Nubian Desert following the railway line down to Atbara and then onto Port Sudan. The Nubian desert from Wadi Halfa to the Nile river north of Atbara was again a great experience - remote and extremely desolate, not even a blade of grass.

Upon arrival in Port Sudan we made inquiries about driving north overland into Egypt. After many hours of being shuffled from one office to another we were told that this border area was in dispute and that both sides engage in spasmodic skirmishes. Permission was denied. It finally dawned on us that we by now were running short of time and that we would not be able to travel through the Middle East. We decided to tour Egypt whilst Troopie made its way by ship to Italy.

On Saturday, Troopie left for Italy whilst we flew by Sudan Airways to Cairo Egypt. Sudan Airways was an experience! At the airport we had to collect a health certificate to certify that we were free of the Ebola Virus. Then we had our bags and bodies thoroughly searched for undeclared currency which we had of course. Fortunately they did not find it. The plane was an old Boeing 737. A few of the seats had no backs, my tray table was almost unusable, we couldn't see out of the plane windows as they were so badly scratched, seatbelts were not required and some people lay sideways during takeoff and landing. Safety is not a priority with Sudan Airways. We were relieved to land safely in Cairo.

What a contrast between Sudan and Egypt. The Sudanese people are so gentle and sincerely friendly - even the officials. The Egyptians on the other hand are Arab, much more wealthy and aloof. Cairo is so cosmopolitan compared to all the other African cities we've seen since leaving Southern Africa. In some ways it’s good but in other ways we really miss the real African people and culture, especially the Sudanese and Ethiopian people. For the next week or so, whilst adjusting to Pizza Hut, McDonalds, ATM machines and VISA cards, we will be touring Egypt using public transport - oh I wish Troopie was here.

We were sad to hear about the eight tourists who were killed in Uganda. We were in the same area a few months ago. Uganda is a great country and in need of the tourist dollar. It is a great tourist destination and does not deserve such bad press. The chances are probably higher of being killed in a car accident than as a tourist in Uganda.

The weather was quite hot in Sudan but here in Cairo it's a beautiful twenty degrees. As usual we have been keeping well. We'll send you another update when we get to Europe. Hope this finds you all well and not too bored by our travel news.

Cheers,

Geoff, Kienny and Su-lin Kingsmill