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18 December 1998

The Kingsmill's Trans-Africa Overland Trip, Part 8: Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi

Geoff Kingsmill
2006-04-25 21:06:58

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long drive since leaving Harare. We met up with a couple of South African's who were driving up to Kenya, a German couple who are touring East and Southern Africa and would like to buy Troopie when we get to Europe.

The Austrian couple, Gunther and Uli, whose vehicle was invaded by baboons in Mana Pools, were also camping here. They mentioned to us that when they got their Ethiopian visa in Harare the embassy had said that the border with Eritrea had reopened for tourists which opens up an easier path to the Middle East. They are on a similar timetable to us and so we plan to meet up again in Ethiopia and perhaps travel together through Ethiopia and Eritrea, or Djibouti if need be.

It was difficult to draw ourselves away from Senga Bay but we eventually had to move on to Nhakata Bay further north on Lake Malawi. The road was bitumen all the way however there were some badly potholed sections. We were pleased that we spent the extra time in Senga Bay. Nhakata Bay was pleasant but a real letdown after Senga Bay. We camped at the Chikale Beach Resort. They were not really geared to accommodate campers.

We continued onto Livingstonia which was another of those British mountain retreats away from the heat and malaria - much like Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. The 12km steep gravel track winds its way up the mountain through a series of twenty hairpin bends. The Livingstonia Mission buildings are in a state of disrepair which is unfortunate. We walked around and under two large waterfalls which we really enjoyed, especially the children.

We also met two British couples who quit their jobs in Europe and have just started a campsite and permaculture garden. Their plot of land has a million-dollar view overlooking the waterfall, mountains and Lake Malawi. The showers and toilets were really uniquely designed.

From here we headed to the Tanzanian border. It was with much trepidation as we approached the immigration officer. ...