Home » Botswana » Jul 26, 2004 Savute Marsh, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Now is as good a time as any to introduce a word or two about our camp crew. They travel in an old Mercedes diesel truck, carrying all our supplies - tents, fuel, water, food, etc. At most, only three can ride in the cab of the truck, and possibly only two. The rest ride in the back, over the dusty, bumpy, bone-jarring roads. After that they proceed to set up four large tents, complete with a freshly dug pit toilet and bucket shower in the back of each; next is a dining tent, their own tents, and a “kitchen”. Then they’re off to gather fire wood and generally provide a seamless transition to our next camp. Let me tell you that it’s a very comforting sight after a hard day on the road to see camp all lit up, a lantern in front of each tent, a dozen or so hung around the dining tent, and a fire roaring ready to ward off the coming winter chill. We are well supported.

Jul 26, 2004 Savute Marsh, Chobe National Park, Botswana

Tom Schueneman
2006-03-27 15:41:37

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with ample opportunity to try and capture the angular shapes and stark isolation of trees on the savannah.

The evening game drive ended with Alwyn stopping in the middle of the Savute and allowing us to disperse from the truck to watch the sun set and disappear into the horizon. Wildebeest and impala grazing in the distance were silhouettes on the darkening sky, a light breeze stirred the air, and night settled in.

It was dark as we made our way back to camp. Suddenly I saw a flash in the headlights as Alwyn made a quick corrective move. I thought to myself, “Was that an elephant’s butt I just saw?” Alwyn mumbled something about almost hitting something, and a second later the unmistakable scolding of a startled elephant trumpeted through the air. It is my hope that it wasn’t the same elephant we upset on the way out. The observer affecting the observed indeed!

The wind has picked up tonight, making it difficult to keep the lanterns lit at dinner, and bringing a chill that beckons the warmth of my cot, complete with a hot water bottle at the foot, and a chocolate on the pillow. It was never like this when I was Boy Scout.
Jayne and I have decided to see if we can book an extra night at Victoria Falls instead of laying over in Johannesburg. Why we’d want to spent a night at a layover hotel just outside the airport is a bit of a mystery, and it seems as if that could have been presented as an option.

Not that I’m complaining.

Tomorrow we will move on to the Chobe River, our last bush camp before Vic Falls. The end of our journey is approaching.

But for now I sit out on the African savannah listening to the wind whip the tent and watch flickering light of the lantern outside. Soon I’ll be straining to remember this moment, so I’d better just lie still and soak it up. The moon is now near full, and the ghostly light makes the landscape luminescent; drenched in mystery and hope, much like the feeling while watching the quelea. Mystery in the quiet workings of nature, and hope that the sun will rise once again tomorrow.

In case I haven’t yet made it clear – I love it out here.

I will report in next from the Chobe River.