Home » Botswana » Jul 21, 2004 Okavango Delta, Botswana

Our “camp” for the next two nights will be rather comfortable, our one stay at a lodge during our safari until its conclusion at Victoria Falls – which isn’t a lodge anyway (more on all this later). We’ve come up-river to the Xugana Lodge, about a five hour boat ride along the Moanachira River from the Xakanaxa Boat Station not too far from our last camp at Fourth Bridge.

Jul 21, 2004 Okavango Delta, Botswana

Tom Schueneman
2006-03-27 15:37:49

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than the boat and all the people on it combined, and it was made abundantly clear that our presence right there wasn’t making our friend happy. We slowly backed out, our driver remaining calm throughout the encounter. Alwyn deduced that our boy was with the group we had seen earlier on the other side of the channel, and had crossed by himself to take advantage of feeding opportunities. We backed up out of sight and Alwyn promised that if we waited quietly, we’d see the elephant cross the channel to catch up with his mates. Sure enough, a few minutes later he came across, looking as if the channel were a mere wading pool, to join up with his group.

Dan had the video camera with him up top on the boat and got the whole thing in full motion, including his mother running for cover. It was good for a chuckle for all as we moved off up river to find a suitable spot for lunch.

Soon after, we found a little island perfect to set up our lunch, and I do mean “little”; a dry spot of land about 30 feet by 50 feet. Someone inquired whether we should be on the lookout for crocodile that may also be in the mood for a little lunch (no doubt leaving the sandwiches and salad in favor of the goofy humans). Alwyn said there weren’t any crocs around. One thing that is essential for the safety and enjoyment of a safari is placing your faith in your guide, and this was a perfect example. If Alwyn say there aren’t any croc around, then break out the ham and swiss and let’s have lunch!

After lunch Alwyn challenged Nicky, Scott, and Dan for a little race through the water. Scott and Dan needed a little (a lot actually) of encouragement to get in over their ankles, but they eventually did. After much splashing and running and laughing, Alwyn emerged from the contest thoroughly soaked. If there had been crocs around, they would surely have been scared off by the commotion.

Soon we were off again for the three hour ride left to us until reaching Xugana. We all settled in to our spots, most of us dozing off for a nap.

I settled into my bow end jump seat, spread out, my feet just inches from the water as it rushed by and was soon falling into a woozy dreamlike state, my head occasionally bobbing against my chest as I lost control of both my muscles and my imagination...

The river cruiser headed up stream through the dense and fetid jungle. The captain looked at Kurtz saying “My orders tell me that I’m not to know where we’re headed, and I don’t... But one look at you and I know it’s going to be hot”

Suddenly my head would bounce against my chest and I’d be jerked back into reality. A reality of warm afternoon sun on my shoulders, tall, golden reeds and papyrus rushing by on either side of a narrow channel, the wind in my face, and water lapping at the souls of my boots. I looked behind at my safari mates, either napping or idly watching the delta rush by. Sometime you are fortunate enough to realize a special moment while you are still in it. Able to savor the feeling, an immense sensation of gratitude and happiness washes over you. I smiled and turned my face to the wind. Happy and grateful.