Our “camp” for the next two nights will be rather comfortable, our one stay at a lodge during our safari until its conclusion at Victoria Falls – which isn’t a lodge anyway (more on all this later). We’ve come up-river to the Xugana Lodge, about a five hour boat ride along the Moanachira River from the Xakanaxa Boat Station not too far from our last camp at Fourth Bridge.
Jul 21, 2004 Okavango Delta, Botswana


Tom Schueneman2006-03-27 15:37:49
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Soon after leaving the boat station, the wide lagoon narrowed into a series of inlets and narrow channels, lined with tall reeds, papyrus, hibiscus, and the occasional crocodile; water chestnut and water lily dotted the channel.
Game viewing wasn’t prime, given our position low on the water and surrounded by the tall reeds of the delta, but an elephant is still pretty hard to miss. We spied some elephants feeding close by as we pulled onto a suitable landing spot amidst the reeds for some in the party to disembark for a pee-break (after Alwyn had checked the area and given the all-clear, of course). A little further down, we spotted an adolescent male feeding alone on the other side of the channel from where we saw the group during our pit stop. We slowly pulled the boat into the reeds and cut the engine near him to get a closer look. Jayne was at the tip of the bow, then Nancy and I right behind, all taking pictures and acting as respectful as humanly possible. The elephant continued to feed, but was also moving closer to the boat and eyeing us suspiciously. When he was only thirty or so yards away from the boat, he suddenly decided to let us know who was boss. He abruptly lifted his trunk, shook his ears, and charged the boat. A rush of adrenalin surged through my veins as I stood motionless in preparation for the elephant’s wrath, Nancy pushed behind me in a startled rush, Jayne ducked, and the boat driver calmly started the engine and waited. What the others did I have no idea as my focus was intent on the tons of elephant moving in our direction.
Most often, an elephant rushing you is just a feint; just stand your ground – yeah, right! No really! They usually have no intention of following through with their charge (unless you’re being incredibly stupid and really pissing the animal off), as the message is sent and received long before actual elephant contact occurs. Still, the elephant weighs more than the
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See photographs from:
Botswana Gallery
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