Home » Bolivia » Tripping in Tititaca - no huaris.

They just don’t know when to stop. At least by Tuesday things had somewhat returned o normal (?) in La Paz, just the odd random squirt of water, splash and splatter….here in Copacabana, as if to emulate their more famous namesake in Brasil, they just keep on with it, two groups at opposite corners of the plaza, almost in competition, couple of big bass drums, some small drums and 20 or so square recorder-like things, I hesitate to call them instruments, but no doubt in the sober hands of a musician something musical could come of it.<br />

Tripping in Tititaca - no huaris.

Bill Shum
2006-03-24 20:47:27

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They just don’t know when to stop. At least by Tuesday things had somewhat returned o normal (?) in La Paz, just the odd random squirt of water, splash and splatter….here in Copacabana, as if to emulate their more famous namesake in Brasil, they just keep on with it, two groups at opposite corners of the plaza, almost in competition, couple of big bass drums, some small drums and 20 or so square recorder-like things, I hesitate to call them instruments, but no doubt in the sober hands of a musician something musical could come of it.

The women, who incidentally, seem to do 90% of the work in Bolivia, are dressed to the nines in a million layers of skirts and petticoats, the outer layer being elaborately embroidered and with little ornaments stitched on, they swirl and swing their hips, long black braids down past their bums, little derby hats balanced precariously on their heads. The men are sober-suited, all the musicians are men and each group has its distinctive “team” outfit.
And everyone drinks lots of beer and most get absolutely shit-faced, but in a friendly sort of way, swirling and twirling, dancers falling over, bodies lying in doorways, drunks Bolivialurching about the streets, toilet training all but forgotten.

The women carry the weight of the world tied up in brightly coloured cloths and slung over their backs, I saw them in the road carying rocks for construction, to markets, in the carnivals they carry a milk crate of beer bottles same way!..and usually with a kid as well.

And at 10am every morning someone blesses the vehicles in front of the big church. Can’t tell if it’s christian, pagan or a mixture, the latter I expect. It’s the same tradition in La Paz and elsewhere at carnival time, every business, even the little tin-box-street-stall is garlanded with paper streamers, strewn with petals, then the nerve-jangling, ear-deafening string of crackers is lit, everyone jumps!, ...