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My most significant trip started May 30 2005, on my son's birthday. I already made first camp on the shore of the Issyk Kul Lake, prepared my food on a fire and swam in the cold Issyk Kul water.

From Russia to India (part II: Travel Notes from Central Asia)

Alex Mumzhiu
2006-03-22 19:21:14

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through Pakistan over the Kunjerab Pass instead. Roerich built Institute of Himalayan Research (now abandoned) in Kulu Valley in Ladakh. I plan to visit it as well as Dalai Lama home in nearby Dharamsala. After this "short" interruption I would like to return to my travel diary:

In St Petersburg I met the only other enthusiast of long travel on folding bikes that I know, Romanycz. Romanysz translates my Notes in Russian and publishes them on his Internet site.

http://romanycz.travel.ru

Then, I flew to Almaty. In Almaty I took my bike through the famous skating ring Medeu and Shymbulak to Talgar Pass, see picture. I know many of my readers remember these names. I planned to go down on bike, but I realized that I have to attach skis to bike to do this.

From Almaty, Kazakhstan I went to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan.

All former Soviet Central Asian Republics are very corrupt. Corruption is rather a rule than exception there. I also had to deal with it, unfortunately.

There are complicated and cumbersome rules of foreigner registration here. If you break them you have to pay. There are many corrupt countries in the world. But in most of them if you did something wrong you have to pay some predetermined amount of money, that's it. In Russia and former Soviet Republics you have to participate in a certain ritual: "You broke the rule. I cannot register you", official would say. "So how can I get my registration", you reasonably ask. "Go back to your Australia and enter my county the proper way" official replies. Next step is yours. You have to beg: "Devushka (lady) I cannot return to Australia because my return flight is a month from now" Sometimes you have to beg few times. It helps to mention sick relatives. When she (most of time it is she) will make exclusion for you, only, and take the bribe. It is good to know approximate amount of bribe, or it will be another problem. In my case bribe supposed to be between $1.30 and $2.30. My violation was unavoidable. Like most people I came to the capitol of Kyrgyzstan, Bishkek by shared taxi and did not have a ticket to prove the date of crossing the border. They do not put stamps in passport at the border, I guess with the only purpose to get bribe later. This total corruption does not influence national character of Kyrgyz people badly. Ordinary people (not officials) are very kind, helpful and welcoming. Country is very poor and not only bribes but the other goods are also very cheap.

Nothing remind the recent velvet revolution in Bishkek. Most danger came from the open manholes on the mostly unlit streets.

From Bishkek I took a bus to Issyk Jul Lake. About mid-night in the middle of nowhere I asked driver to let me exit and went on the shore of Issyk Kul to sleep. Next day I rode to Karakol and stayed in the LP recommended backpacker's hostel. It was a really great! I would recommend it to everybody. Their E-Mail address is: yaktours@infotel.kg Valentin Derevyanko, the owner is very knowledgeable and helpful and his mother in law is incredibly good cook. She is a winner of European Cooking Competition.

In Karakol I visited Przhevelski Museum and Grave. According to his will "The Traveler Przhevalski" was written on his grave. From Karakol I circled Issyk Kul Lake from the East and returned to Almaty.

PS: I would like to thank everybody who sent me responses on my Russia to India proposal, especially the great travelers of today, Vladimir Dinets http://dinets.travel.ru/ and Janne Corax http://www3.utsidan.se/corax-e/ also I would like to thank Liza Ch. for last minute help with bicycle parts, Edward B. for hospitality in Almaty and Anatoly B. for very inspiring book on Przhevalski expeditions.

Alex Mumzhiu
Almaty, Kazakstan
June 9 2005
6 pm