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On every license plate in the province of Quebec, the motto "Je me souviens" appears. It means simply, "I remember." It's not just a motto, but for many Quebeckers, a political statement as well.

Montreal/Ottawa October, 1998

Tony
2004-01-28 10:27:53

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On every license plate in the province of Quebec, the motto "Je me souviens" appears. It means simply, "I remember." It's not just a motto, but for many Quebeckers, a political statement as well. These days it seems that the separatist movement (led by the ruling Parti Quebecois) has drawn back a bit, after a very narrow defeat in a referendum for sovereignty in 1995. The ins and outs of Quebec versus Canada is practically a hobby for me, and I won't go on at length about it in a travel memoir...but my recent visit to Montreal and Ottawa provided many opportunities to see two different societies with very different outlooks interacting peacefully, if not always with understanding or affection.And Quebec is an alltime favorite destination for me: the nearest really foreign place for me to visit.

As is my custom, I trusted in Amtrak to take me to the Great White North. A giveaway fare, and a theoretical love of train travel hooked me in, although Amtrak can put any railway enthusiast's love of trains to the test. What do you get when you combine the USA's inability to run any public service with a 375 mile trip on a train? A little under 35 miles an hour, and 11 hours of feeling like the mules pulling us were going to give out at any moment.

Two tour groups had also booked on the train, and so all the seats were filled. At least I was in one of Amtrak's newest coaches, with lots of legroom and big (and clean)windows to look out at the passing scene. I sat on the side that would ride along Lake George and Lake Champlain upstate. Since this was October, there would be lots of pretty views of the autumn foliage.

I read, I snacked, I drifted off in a nap or two, and listened to cd's as I enjoyed the lovely scenery. About halfway through the trip, a group of people 8-10 rows back started to get to know one another and began telling each other their life stories. LOUDLY! I could ...