Home » Antarctica » Got Penguins? January 6, 2004

Thanks to clear skies and calm waters, we could drop anchor at Half Moon Island, an old caldera worn away to a crescent bay. Atop the rocky, snow-drenched bluffs of this South Shetland isle was a vast rookery of Chinstrap penguins.

Got Penguins? January 6, 2004

Ttrealtravels
2005-12-25 00:15:23

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Thanks to clear skies and calm waters, we could drop anchor at Half Moon Island, an old caldera worn away to a crescent bay. Atop the rocky, snow-drenched bluffs of this South Shetland isle was a vast rookery of Chinstrap penguins.

The zodiac embarkment was not at all as tricky as I'd feared. The stairs were narrow and steep, but not treacherous (although a zodiac driver warned that we won't get as ideal of conditions again). The ride was fast and breezy, and Olle, the expedition leader, greeted us at the shore. "Welcome to Antarctica!" he boomed before reminding us of the proper landing procedure.

Thomas and I were in one of the last zodiac groups. We saw nearly 100 people already swarming around the packed-snow trails. Tourists have to stick to the trails that the staff tramps down. The snow is so deep that if you step, you'll be up to your knees or hips. While this is a mere inconvenience for humans, it can be deadly for a penguin. A bird could fall into one of these deep holes and become trapped very easily. So you must stick to the designated paths, and if you accidentally make a snow hole, fill it up asap.

We walked up the trail to investigate the rookery. Hundreds of black and white Chinstraps nested on the rocks. Every now and then, two would begin yelling at each other -- or maybe it was a singing duet. Whatever, it was loud! Sometimes the rest of the rookery joined in to create a cacophony of cawing and squawking.

Antarctic tourists are only allowed to get as close as five meters to wildlife. However, if you stop in one place and an animal approaches, you can let them -- they don't know the rules! This is the thing to do at the pebbly beach. Kick back, relax, and watch the penguins waddle by. That's where we found a half-dozen Gentoo penguins hanging out with the Chinstraps.

Black and White and Red All Over

Gentoos are distinctive for the red-orange beak and patch of white above the eyes. Chinstraps have an all-black beak and head, plus the namesake narrow line of black feathers across the chin. Their straps remind me of hockey helmets. Although the Gentoos are more like the Pittsburg Pens' namesake.

It's hard not to anthropomorphize penguins, so I didn't try to avoid it. Their movements are so entertaining -- clumsy on land, limber and lithe at sea. They dart through the shallow water and leap out to the beach where they're instantly graceless. They shuffle and stumble and flap the water off their wings, shaking their heads as if stunned to be on dry land again. And then they meticulously clean and preen their feathers, as tidy and obsessive as cats.

We watched them for over an hour, sitting on guano-dusted rocks, endlessly amused. And that was only our first landing!