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Do I take my woolly mittens or not? Heading for a week in the south of France in May one wouldn't think so. Amphitheater in Arles Yet, a decidedly leaden sky, drizzle and 10-degree Centigrade temperatures in Paris had me wondering.
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From Paris to Vichy, the Cevennes, Arles, the Camargue

LindaThalm
2005-12-02 16:57:10

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Do I take my woolly mittens or not? Heading for a week in the south of France in May one wouldn't think so. Amphitheater in Arles Yet, a decidedly leaden sky, drizzle and 10-degree Centigrade temperatures in Paris had me wondering.

An hour behind schedule (dithering about what to pack) we pointed the car direction Arles, knowing we'd be stopping somewhere about half-way there for the first night.

Leaving without a reservation for dinner or a bed for the night sets off bells of anguish when I'm in a foreign country, but in France - not at all (in the off-season anyway)!

While I drove my partner Pierre, pulled out the Michelin Guide Rouge and Gault Millau guides. He then cross-referenced hotels, eateries, multiplied by our driving speed, adding (or subtracting?) Early morning in the park in Vichy how many kilometers one could go in 3 hours.

Presto: our destination was Vichy. Two quick cell phone calls and reservations were made for bed and dinner. We stayed in the pleasant two-star Arvena hotel on a quiet street smack dab in the middle of town.

We couldn't have pre-planned it better. Our hotel was a 5-minute walk to the Jacques Decoret restaurant. Finding good restaurants open on a Sunday evening is not all that easy in France.

Our dining experience was one of the most delightful I've ever had in France. The setting is modern, with tables nicely spaced and impeccable service.

The presentation was as creative as it gets (score 20/20) and our meal was delicious from start to finish. Gault Millau calls it 'une adresse en or' and I heartily agree.

We only had time for a brisk morning walk around downtown Vichy. Not dipping in a spa or thermal bath was regrettable, but we had a cooking class to get to in Arles.

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