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After seven trips to Japan, I longed to see another part of Asia. I'd been warned that Japan isn't really representative of the region...

Singapore

Hank Shiffman
2003-11-29 15:09:16

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After seven trips to Japan, I longed to see another part of Asia. I'd been warned that Japan isn't really representative of the region; it's too orderly, too mannered, just too low key. So I wanted the real experience, while wondering at the same time if I'd be able to handle it.

I'm still wondering. Singapore is Asia For Dummies; it's the lite version for the linguistically and culturally impaired. A city-state that's organized and administered within an inch of its life, where failing to flush a public toilet is a crime and chewing gum is a banned substance. The libertarian in me is appalled. But the comfort-loving traveler thinks the libertarian should sit quietly and pay attention to results. Like the amazing combination of tall buildings and vast greenery I could see from my hotel room window. Or the well dressed and prosperous-looking crowds wandering along every major street. Better yet, a place where I could read the signs and talk to shopkeepers without playing Charades. I've had a tougher time getting around in Germany or France.

The guidebooks all speak in the most glowing terms about the Raffles Hotel, a grand and glorious nineteenth century pile that takes up a full city block. Named for the English founder of the colony, the Raffles is a bit too grand and glorious for my tastes; I prefer the more casual luxury of the Four Seasons. But I wasn't entirely intimidated; we returned to the Raffles that evening to experience a couple of Singapore Slings at the Long Bar before heading down to Boat Quay for dinner.

The Raffles isn't the only impressive bit of architecture in town. A few blocks away we found the fire station at left, whose brick strips lend a jaunty air to an otherwise serious enterprise. But a little further south toward the river we found the truly remarkable structure at right. Just what is it about the use of primary ...

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