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October 2003 - August 2004

Tibet, part III

Brett Voegele
2005-11-19 14:02:35

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Saga Dawa

The 15th day of the 4th lunar month (the 15th on the Tibetan calendar is always a full moon) marks the date of the present Buddha's birth, enlightenment, and entry into nirvana. Tibetans in Lhasa mark the occasion by walking the 8-km/5-mile Lingkhor circuit around what was the old city. I met some friends and we were on the circuit by 6 AM. There were quite a few chanting people, with prayer wheels and prayer beads. There really wasn't much talking, but a lot of fast walking. Enterprising people were out selling prayer beads; sang (juniper for the large incense burners, which were belching smoke continually); balloons with prayer flag tails to be released into the air; cold drinks; and food. The beggars were also out in record numbers - lining one entire street at least 3 people deep on both sides. Unfortunately, the best part of the kora (religious circuit), which passes by some rock carvings, was closed, as there were too many people for such a narrow path. We finished the kora in just over 2 hours, and it was great to feel the energy and tradition while rubbing shoulders with the locals. But wait...I wasn't done. I'd promised various friends that I'd walk the kora with them that day, so at 10 I found myself ready to start again, this time with a guy who'd painted me some beautiful traditional thangkas (religious paintings). There were even more people on the kora at that time. I'd been told by people that it was considered unlucky to walk the kora an even number of times, so it was fortunate that I had another circuit planned, my third of the day - this time at 6 with another friend. Note to self - if I'm ever back in Lhasa during Saga Dawa, organize friends ahead of time so as to only make one circuit!

Samye Cham

Once again I boarded a bus in Lhasa bound for someplace where I technically needed a permit, so they tried ...