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October 2003 - August 2004

Tibet, part III

Brett Voegele
2005-11-19 14:02:35

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was the genuine Tibet. That evening I went into the compound to watch people present khatas (white ceremonial scarves) and to listen to the monks chant. I then proceeded back up the hill, found a secluded spot, and used my plastic and rope, which I'd bought for this purpose, to make a shelter for the night.

Early the next morning I broke 'camp' and then headed farther uphill to witness another sky burial. There were fewer vultures and more people watching than last time - more of a circus feel. I then descended to the valley floor and walked about 4 kms. outside of the village to where everybody was gathered for a teaching. I enjoyed simply sitting on my pack and watching the parade of people pass by after the teaching ended at noon. Shortly afterwards it started to rain, again, so I joined the throng heading back to the encampment. One had to jump across various small tributaries, negotiate a small bridge, and wade through the mud - all of this elbow-to-elbow. You were simply carried along by the pulsing crowd. I spent the rest of the afternoon in the rain wandering about. I will say this, that valley is going to be extremely lush, as there was human fertilizer everywhere! It made it extremely difficult to find a place to set up my plastic shelter for the night.

Many Tibetan festivals have been eliminated or radically changed. The Powa Chemo had been outlawed for several years, but was allowed again in 1992. However, this year's event was pared from the standard 7 or more days down to 3. The last day was another teaching in the morning, so I headed back out to the site of the event through a constant drizzle. There were already thousands there, huddled under umbrellas, plastic, or simply bearing the elements. The lama arrived, and people immediately began throwing khatas towards his throne. The teaching/prayer commenced, and I walked around, taking it all in. Then, before I knew it, everybody was up ...