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So I found myself on the train, tearing through the heart of Pakistan - before sunset on the first day, we began to leave the desert, and when I woke up the next morning, the land was lush, green - we were in Pakistani Punjab! Gazing out the window, I saw buffallo heads bobbing on the rivers, while brightly coloured women patrolled the monsoon drenched fields. For the veteran traveller to the region, not much perhaps, but for a first-timer to the sub-continent, an image that won't be forgotten.<br/>

Old World Exploits

Conor_purcell
2005-11-18 13:49:20

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out underneath the stars. Definately authentic.

A lot has been said and written about the origins of the Kalasha, with the popular theory being that they're the descendants of Alexander The Great. Some certainly have European features, but to me, they look like a mix of all the different people I've come across so far on this trip - Slavic, Albanian, Greek, Turkish, Persian etc. Ask them, and they say 'Siam', although they don't know where this is. They lead simple lives of routine, though they have complex beliefs and traditions that the local Muslims don't understand. As far as I could see, the women did all the hard work - harvesting, collecting wood, cooking etc. - while the men collected a few nuts, but mostly just sat around getting stoned all day.

Last stop was Rumbur valley, the most beautiful in my opinion, and the morning before I left, we visited a school, taught a bit of English, and played with the kids. Before long, we were back in Chitral, so it was time to say goodbye to Imran, and set off on the long journey to Gilgit.

My last stop in NWFP

was Mastuf, a tiny little oasis in a sea of spectacular peaks. I had planned to stay one night and move on, but as soon as I settled into my guest house, I knew I'd stay a little longer. Chicken and chips was on the menu! Not only that, apricot brandy! And, as luck would have it, there was an Ismailli wedding on that night.

About the Ismaillis - they're a branch of Islam that spread to this region from Afghanistan, and they're extremely laid back and tolerant compared with the Sunni and Shia sects. So, alcohol is no problem, and their parties are pretty wild (by Pakistani standards). At the celebration that night, there was traditional dancing with music, and it wasn't long before word got around that there was a foreigner in town. Eventually, the request came that I couldn't refuse, and soon, I was up giving them my best moves, mostly picked up at Dublin raves over the years. Still, they seemed happy with my performance, and the next day, as I strolled the tiny bazaar, I got many calls......"Hello mister! You are dancing, very good!"

Finally, I was off to Gilgit, over the Shandur Pass, an 11-hour journey to some of the world's biggest mountains.

Conor.