Home » India » India 2002 - Part Five: Calcutta

In the morning, I took the metro south to visit the Kali Temple. The desk clerk had told me that the temple was close to the metro exit and would be easy to find.

India 2002 - Part Five: Calcutta

Dougburnett
2003-11-24 12:23:15

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spoke English, but I also didn't get the feeling that they minded my presence. So I walked farther in. The work area was small and I had to step around people and over half-finished images. Growing bolder, I got my camera out and, holding it up, asked, "Mind if I take a few pictures?"

This request was met with smiles as the men continued talking among themselves. They seemed rather amused by my presence, but no one addressed directly, so I started taking pictures as quick as my flash would recharge. I took some of the straw and string framework the images are based on. I took some of the men smearing the dark, gray clay on the frame. And, I took some of the men that sat around the wall.

By now everyone was laughing and, I guess, enjoying my antics. I suspect that they see very few tourists here. After 10 minutes I was done and backed toward the door. As I left, I waved and shouted, "Thank you so much. Good-bye." They all laughed and waved as I headed back toward the main road.

I was delighted. Not only had I found the image-makers, I had taken some great pictures. It was a totally unique place and as interesting as I suspected it would be. Also, finding it gave me a feeling of accomplishment. Back at the main street, I waved down a taxi and told him, "The Fairlawn Hotel on Sudder Street, please." He didn't understand that so I tried again, "New Market, please." That he understood.

Back at the hotel I got a beer and sat in the courtyard recording the day's events. I was sad to think I would be leaving India in the morning. After I finished my beer, I decided to take one last walk around the neighborhood to absorb as much of the excitement and chaos as I could. It would be something to sustain me until my next trip to Asia.

Outside I was approached by a rickshaw wallah - this was the hand pulled kind of rickshaw. (If you have seen the movie City of Joy, you will know what they look like.) I had walked past these guys every time I entered or left the hotel and had always declined their services. Now, I thought it might be fun to take a little ride around the neighborhood. With the help of one of the taxi drives, I explained to the wallah what I wanted and we agreed on a price.

We set off into the Calcutta night, down noisy streets past bright markets and temples. Riding in a hand pulled rickshaw is an odd experience. First, you set quite high, as the wheel of the rickshaws are very large. Second, you go pretty slow and most other traffic - bikes, cars and trucks - whiz by you. Third, the rickshaw rocks to the rhythm of the wallah’s pace. The wallah has a little bell in his hand that he rings to let people know he is coming. It's a pleasant, gentle ring, against the background of honking traffic and loud music coming from the shops.

It was actually a very pleasant little trip and a great way to say good-bye to India. In about 20 minutes we were back at the hotel. Now it was time to say good-bye to India: good-bye to the incredibly lively streets; good-bye to the heavy, aggressive traffic; good-bye to the insistent touts, vendors and beggars, and good-bye to the friendly, helpful Indian people.

In the hotel I settled my bill, picked up my laundry and headed to bed - I had a plane to catch in the morning. My vacation wasn't over quite yet - I was headed to Bangkok for a few days of eating and relaxing - but it was good-bye to India.

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