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In the morning, I took the metro south to visit the Kali Temple. The desk clerk had told me that the temple was close to the metro exit and would be easy to find.
India 2002 - Part Five: Calcutta
Dougburnett2003-11-24 12:23:15
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I had one more chance. I knew roughly where the craftsmen worked - the area is called Kumartuli. There was a ghat (as stairs leading down to the river are called) by that name on my map. I decided to take the metro to the closest stop and then walk toward the river. I would see if people there would know where the image-makers were.
When I got to the area, the first shopkeeper I showed the picture to nodded and pointed toward the river. My hopes rose as I walked quickly along narrow, dirty lanes deeper and deeper into a rundown neighborhood.
Every now and then I would see brightly painted and clothed images sitting in the street. They were sometimes set in a little fenced in area or sometimes under a small tent, but always there was loud Hindu music playing. Little kids often were dancing around them and sometimes, young men sat paying cards. The streets were lined with dusty, two-story buildings and women sat on the stoops sewing or washing. They stopped to watch as I passed.
I kept showing my picture and kept being pointed deeper and deeper into the neighborhood. I felt a little uncomfortable. I was the only westerner around and everyone stopped to watch me. Large groups of kids were playing in the streets and I often had to push past them. They would all shout," Hello, hello" at me. I kept remembering the uncomfortable crowds at the temple in Gulbarga.
Finally, I saw a muddy splattered building that had a couple of half-completed images setting in front. When I looked into the open double-doors, I saw four or five men working on some more images. I stood at the door letting my eyes adjust to the gloom. Everyone looked up, but quickly went back to work. Besides the craftsmen there were six or more men sitting farther back along the wall.
Since no one had said anything, I stepped in and said, "Hello, may I watch?" It wasn't clear if anyone
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See photographs from:
India Gallery
