Home » China » China 2001 - Part Three: Kashgar

I spent most of the day traveling. First, I took a three and a half hour flight from Beijing to Urumqi. That's about the same distance as flying from New York to California.

China 2001 - Part Three: Kashgar

Dougburnett
2003-11-24 10:03:29

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from grilling meat.

Next, I headed over to the market proper. It was a vast covered area with row after row of vendors selling everything from wool hats to silk carpets, from dried snakes to fresh bread, from toothpaste to bicycle tires. More and more people were pouring in all the time. The sun was getting hotter and the lanes were getting more crowded.

I saw a man dressed in a suit with a live chicken tucked under each arm, the alert heads peering out behind him. There was a smiling, toothless man cranking an ice cream maker. At a restaurant an old 55-gallon drum had been converted into a stove to cook steamed buns. There were barbers, herb salesmen and pool tables along the crowded lanes. It was a feast for the eyes and the lens.

The Kashgar market is reputed to be the largest in Central Asia. I don't know about that, but it was certainly one of the most lively and interesting places I have ever visited. And, the town of Kashgar is quite fascinating too. First, there is the dichotomy between the traditional Uighur town and the new Chinese city that has been grafted onto the south side.

The two places couldn't be more different. The new town was indistinguishable from all the other Chinese cities I had visited - new concrete buildings containing banks and department stores. That drab place was in great contrast to the wonders of the Uighur town, so lively and full of character.

Then there were the tourists. Kashgar is about as far west as you can go in China. I flew and it took me the better part of the day to get there. By train or bus it's 24 hours from Urumqi - and Urumqi is another two and a half days from Beijing. Undertaking a trip to Kashgar is no casual endeavor.

When I arrived at Kashgar, I was surprised to see so many other tourists. Tour groups and backpackers filled the 500 beds of my hotel and there were tourists everywhere in the Sunday market. Where did they all come from? Some probably flew in for the market like I did. Others were probably doing the silk route, either coming from or going to Central Asia. Still, to travel so far and to see so many other tourists was a surprise to me.

Finally, I got tired of the market - the crowds, the noise and the heat - and took a taxi back to the hotel. But, one trip wasn't enough - after a nap and lunch, I headed back to see more. People were still streaming in on donkeys, bicycles and on foot - how could there be room for all of them? Also, where did they all come from? I walked around and looked at all the carpet vendors, but didn't find anything I fancied.

As I was standing watching the flow of people, a young boy came up to me. He was carrying a small bundle. He unwrapped and held it up for me to see. It was a small black rabbit, its tiny nose twitching at me. The kid gave me a proud smile and walked off. I guess he has just bought it and wanted to show someone.

I walked some more until I finally had my fill and went back to the hotel for another nap. In the late afternoon I took one more walk, this time to the new city. Finally at about 11:00 P.M. a taxi arrived to take me to the airport - I was on my way back to Urumqi.

The flight was uneventful. Outside the Urumqi airport I was surrounded by shouting taxi drivers - it was 2:00 A.M. - so I chose the only woman in the crowd. It turned out that some guy was actually driving - she was just the shill - and he sped recklessly through empty streets to my hotel, the Hong Fu. I checked in and dropped into bed.

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