Home » Malawi » Day 21. Sat 7th May. Mount Mulanje

Chris is up at 4:30 to start her climb at 5:15. Blondie and I lie in until 7.
After breakfast we walk down to the forestry lodge with Ken (this is also a conservation area). Ken is worried that the Disco is making funny noises again, and we find a workshop with an inspection oit just opposite the forestry lodge, so Ken goes and gets the Land Rover while Blondie and I do a circular walk in the forest (just about managing not to get lost) returning around half past nine for a cuppa. The mission is run by an English woman, Dr. Margaret Swain, and she drives past as we are having our tea, so we get to meet her.
It's several miles down to Mulanje town, but there are a few little shops on the road and Blondie wants to get some spuds for dinner, so the two of us head off to do some shopping. We don't have much success, but are eventually befriended by Felix, who apparently knows Ken. Felix guides us to a shop that has potatoes, and also takes us to a shop that sells beer, but which is sadly sold out. He also offers to give us a tour of the village and show us where the local beer is brewed. I'm up for it, but Blondie isn't too keen, so we decline. We manage to find a shop that sells sterilised milk, and one that sells warm coke (a poor substitute for cold beer). All around us the Mulanje Massif rises out of the plain, and the scenery is magnificent.

Day 21. Sat 7th May. Mount Mulanje

DaveMidgley
2005-10-22 19:06:18

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Chris is up at 4:30 to start her climb at 5:15. Blondie and I lie in until 7.
After breakfast we walk down to the forestry lodge with Ken (this is also a conservation area). Ken is worried that the Disco is making funny noises again, and we find a workshop with an inspection oit just opposite the forestry lodge, so Ken goes and gets the Land Rover while Blondie and I do a circular walk in the forest (just about managing not to get lost) returning around half past nine for a cuppa. The mission is run by an English woman, Dr. Margaret Swain, and she drives past as we are having our tea, so we get to meet her.

It's several miles down to Mulanje town, but there are a few little shops on the road and Blondie wants to get some spuds for dinner, so the two of us head off to do some shopping. We don't have much success, but are eventually befriended by Felix, who apparently knows Ken. Felix guides us to a shop that has potatoes, and also takes us to a shop that sells beer, but which is sadly sold out. He also offers to give us a tour of the village and show us where the local beer is brewed. I'm up for it, but Blondie isn't too keen, so we decline. We manage to find a shop that sells sterilised milk, and one that sells warm coke (a poor substitute for cold beer). All around us the Mulanje Massif rises out of the plain, and the scenery is magnificent.

The plan is to walk a little way up the mountain this afternoon, where there is apparently a very scenic waterfall. I am all for a swim before lunch, but just as I am retrieving my trunks from the line Shona appears. She is an 18 year old from Edinburgh who is teaching here for 6 months. We invite her in for a cup of tea and she chatters nineteen to the dozen in broad Edinburghish for an hour or so. It is not all intelligible, but it is interesting to hear about her experiences, and especially how young English female teachers get on with the local customs (Malawian women do not wear trousers, and she is expected to wear a skirt at all times, but she drew the line when it came to playing football. As a "foreigner" she appears to have managed to get away with this breach of etiquette).

Ken appears while we are chatting to Shona, but he is clearly still not fully recovered from his bout of malaria, and goes back to bed after lunch. However, before he goes he grabs a passing local that he apparently recognises, and engages him to guide us up to the waterfall. He has teeth that stick out in all directions, and a noticeable pong, but he is friendly enough and a good guide. The walk to the waterfall takes about an hour, and is definitely worth the effort. It is a lovely spot, only slightly spoiled by the fact that all the local school children have also decided to spend their Saturday afternoon here. However, there are two large pools under the falls, and for some reason the kids are all in the lower one, so I jump into the upper one. It is very cold, but refreshing after the walk. The kids are all very amused at the sight of a mzungu swimming, and one of them (actually I think he must have been a teacher) eventually joins me.

We head back to the lodge, and Ken joins us for sundowners by the river. Blondie and I cook supper (I open the tins, she puts them in the hot water!)